Потребление одежды с вторичного рынка: мотивация и практики российской молодежи
Научная статья
Для цитирования
Лямзина К. В. Потребление одежды с вторичного рынка: мотивация и практики российской молодежи // Петербургская социология сегодня. 2025. № 29. С. 12-84. DOI: https://doi.org/10.25990/socinstras.pss-29.v1fd-zv60 EDN: SXFPVB (in English).
Аннотация
За последние годы мода на одежду с вторичного рынка стала мировым трендом, обусловленный экологическими соображениями, экономическим давлением и стремлением к индивидуальности. Несмотря на то, что мотивации и практики потребителей вторичного рынка одежды активно исследуются в западной академическом поле, в современном российском контексте они остаются слабо изученными. Данное исследование посвящено анализу мотиваций и практик потребления одежды с вторичного рынка среди российской молодёжи в возрасте от 18 до 35 лет. На основе 31 полуструктурированный интервью и полевых наблюдений, проведённых в основном в Санкт-Петербурге, с применением элементов рефлексивного тематического анализа (по Braun & Clarke 2006, 2019, 2021), были определены ключевые мотивационные силы: экономические и гедонистические, в соответствии с типологией Ferraro и др. (2016) и Machado и др. (2019). Результаты показывают, что главными факторами выступают экономическая доступность, удовольствие от поиска и стремление к уникальности, тогда как экологическая и этическая мотивация проявляется реже и в качестве второстепенной мотивации. Особое внимание уделяется влиянию социального окружения и культурной памяти на потребительские практики, а также амбивалентному отношению российской молодежи к быстрой моде и трендам. Работа встраивает российский контекст в глобальные дискуссии о моде, идентичности и потребительском сопротивлении, раскрывая, как местные социально-экономические и исторические условия формируют ценности потребления.
Ключевые слова:
вторичный рынок одежды, мотивация, практики, российская молодежь, мода
Литература
Allwood J. M., Laursen S. E., Malvido de Rodriguez C., Bocken N. M. P. Well Dressed? — Cambridge, UK: University of Cambridge, Institute of Manufacturing, 2006.
Aladjalova A. Vintage as a Form of Boundary Defense, Resistance, and Protest // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2024. — Iss. 72. — P. 193–218.
Bartlett D. FashionEast: The Spectre That Haunted Socialism // New Yorker. — 2010. — Oct. 27. — URL: https://www.newyorker.com (access date: 5.09.2025).
Benissan E. Gen Z will drive explosive growth in second hand sales, says Thredup // Vogue Business. — 2023. — Apr. 5. — URL: https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/gen-z-will-drive-explosive-growth-in-secondhand-sales-saysthredup (access date: 5.09.2025).
Benjamin W. Jetztzeit and the Tiger’s Leap // Time in Fashion: Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities / Ed. by C. Evans, A. Vaccari. — London; N. Y.: Bloomsbury, 2020.
Bennett A. Subcultures or neo-tribes? Rethinking the relationship between youth, style and musical taste // Sociology. — 1999. — Vol. 33, no. 3. — P. 599– 617.
Bijan Z., Naseri S., Zare M. Exploration of Relationship between Content of Media, Body image and Choosing Clothes among Male and Female University Students // Research Journal of Recent Sciences. — 2015. — Vol. 4, iss. 10. — P. 58–63.
Bishop S. D. The Motivation of Collecting: What Drives Private Collectors // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2019. — No. 2. — P. 225–232.
Bourdieu P. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. — Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1984.
Braun V., Clarke V. Using thematic analysis in psychology // Qualitative Research in Psychology. — 2006. — Vol. 3, no. 2. — P. 77–101. — DOI: 10.1191/1478088706qp063oa
Braun V., Clarke V. Reflecting on reflexive thematic analysis // Qualitative Research in Sport Exercise and Health. — 2019. — Vol. 11, no. 4. — P. 589–597. — DOI: 10.1080/2159676x.2019.1628806
Braun V., Clarke V. Thematic analysis: A practical guide. — London: SAGE Publications, 2021.
Broun P. Aesthetic Intelligence: How to Develop and Use It in Business and Life. — 3rd ed. — M.: Mann, Ivanov, and Ferber, 2022.
Cassidy T. D., Bennett H. R. The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer // Fashion Practice. — 2012. — Vol. 4, no. 2. — P. 239–261. — DOI: 10.2752/175693812X13403765252424
Cervellon M., Carey L., Harms T. Something old, something used // International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. — 2012. — Vol. 40, no. 12. — P. 956– 974. — DOI: 10.1108/09590551211274946
Cheshmehzangi A. Identity and public realm // Procedia — Social and Behavioral Sciences. — 2012. — Vol. 50. — P. 307–317. — DOI: 10.1016/j.sbspro.2012.08.036
Corbett J., Denegri-Knott J. Rescuing and preserving values in vintage clothing // Journal of Promotional Communications. — 2020. — Vol. 8, no. 1. — P. 28–46.
Crane D. Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. — Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000.
Crane D., Bovone L. Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing // Poetics. — 2006. — Vol. 34, no. 6. — P. 319–333. — DOI: 10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002
DeLong M., Heinemann B., Reiley K. Hooked on Vintage! // Fashion Theory. — 2005. — Vol. 9, no. 1. — P. 23–42. — DOI: 10.2752/136270405778051491
Diddi S., Yan R.-N. Consumer Perceptions Related to Clothing Repair and Community Mending Events: A Circular Economy Perspective // Sustainability. — 2019. — Vol. 11, no. 19. — P. 5306. — DOI: 10.3390/su11195306
Entwistle J. The Fashion Body. — New Literary Review, 2019.
Ferraro C., Sands S., Brace-Govan J. The role of fashionability in second-hand shopping motivations // Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services. — 2016. — Vol. 32. — P. 262–268. — DOI: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2016.07.006
Fletcher K. Durability, fashion, sustainability: the processes and practices of use // Fashion Practice. — 2012. — Vol. 4, no. 2. — P. 221–238.
Forbes. Обувь в России за два года подорожала на 50%, одежда на 40%. — 2023. — URL: https://www.forbes.ru/society/501175-obuv-v-rossii-za-dva-godapodorozhala-na-50-odezda-na-40 (access date: 04.11.2023). (In Russ.)
Gill A., Lopes A. M., Kaye-Smith H. Practicing sustainability: Illuminating “use” in wearing clothes // Cultural Studies Review. — 2016. — Vol. 22, no. 1. — P. 32–58. — DOI: 10.3316/informit.947416186544507
Goff man E. The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. — Edinburgh: University of Edinburgh, 1956.
Gurova O. Fashion and the Consumer Revolution in Contemporary Russia. — London; N. Y.: Routledge, 2015. — DOI: 10.4324/9780203766477
Gurova O. Shopping, Clothing, and Consumer Typology in St. Petersburg // Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology. — 2011. — Vol. 5, no. 14. — P. 129–141. (In Russ.).
Guryanova M. Transgression in Fashion: From Violation to Norm. — M.: New Literary Review, 2023. (In Russ.).
Hopkinson G. C., Pujari D. A Factor analytic study of the sources of meaning in hedonic consumption // European Journal of Marketing. — 1999. — Vol. 33, no. 4. — P. 273–294.
Johns T., Altman J. Compulsive buying in a product specific context: Clothing // Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. — 2009. — Vol. 13, no. 3. — P. 394–405.
Khair N., Malhas S. Fashion-related remedies: Exploring fashion consumption stories during Covid-19. ‘Nostalgia overpowering, Old is the new me’ // Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. — 2022. — Vol. 14, no. 1. — P. 77–92. — DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2022.2085604
Kirgiz A. Hedonism, a consumer disease of the modern age: Gender and hedonistic shopping in Turkey // Global Media Journal: TR Edition. — 2014. — Vol. 4, no. 8. — P. 200–213.
Knežević B., Delić M., Ptić K. Clothing buying motives and store selection criteria — the case of Croatian adolescents // God. XXIX, POSEBNO IZDANJE/2016. — Vol. 29, no. 2. — P. 105–116. — URL: http://hrcak.srce.hr/ojs/index.php/ekonomski-vjesnik/article/view/4707 (access date: 5.09.2025).
Kopytoff I. The cultural biography of things: Commoditization as a process // Appadurai A. (ed.). The social life of things: Commodities in a cultural perspective. — Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986. — P. 64–94.
Laitala K., Klepp I. G. Care and Production of Clothing in Norwegian Homes: Environmental Implications of Mending and Making Practices // Sustainability. — 2018. — Vol. 10, no. 8. — P. 2899. — DOI: 10.3390/su10082899
Langman L. Culture, identity and hegemony: the body in a global age // Current Sociology. — 2003. — Vol. 51, no. 3/4. — P. 223–247.
Machado M. A., Almeida S. O. D., Bollick L. C., Bragagnolo G. Second-hand fashion market: Consumer role in circular economy // Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. — 2019. — Vol. 23. — P. 382–395. — DOI: 10.1108/JFMM-07-2018-0099
McLaren A., McLauchlan S. Crafting sustainable repairs: Practice-based approaches to extending the life of clothes // In Product Lifetimes And The Environment (PLATE): Conference Proceedings, 2015. — P. 221–228.
Niinimäki K. From Disposable to Sustainable. The Complex Interplay between Design and Consumption of Textiles and Clothing: Doctoral dissertation. — Helsinki: Aalto University, 2011.
Niinimäki K. Aesthetical or Rational: Gender and Ethical Fashion Consumption // Journal of Consumer Ethics. — 2017. — Vol. 1, no. 2. — P. 7–18.
Razmakhnina A. The Emotions Vintage Clothing Gives Us // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2023. — Iss. 67. — P. 235–260.
Salomon M. R., Rabolt N. J. Consumer Behavior in Fashion. — Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall, 2004.
Sampson E. Merging and Alienation: Clothing, Its Creator, Consumer, and the “I and Other” Relationship in the Context of Fashion Practices // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2018. — Iss. 49. — P. 73–101.
Sepe F., Valerio M., Anna P., Mario T. Fashion and sustainability: Evidence from the consumption of second‐hand clothes // Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 2024. — DOI: 10.1002/csr.2973
Statista. — URL: https://www.statista.com (access date: 15.10.2023).
Thredup. 2019 Resale report. — URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale (access date: 24.03.2020).
Trivedi A. J., Mehta A. Maslow’s hierarchy of needs-theory of human motivation // International Journal of Research in all Subjects in Multi Languages. — 2019. — Vol. 7, no. 6. — P. 38–41.
Vannini P., Franzese A. The Authenticity of Self: Conceptualization, Personal Experience and Practice // Sociology Compass. — 2008. — Vol. 2. — P. 1621– 1637.
Veenstra A., Kuipers G. It is not Old‐Fashioned, it is vintage, vintage fashion and the complexities of 21st century consumption practices // Sociology Compass. — 2013. — Vol. 7, no. 5. — P. 355–365. — DOI: 10.1111/soc4.12033
Woodworth S. Why Women Wear What They Wear. — M.: New Literary Review, 2022.
Yurchak A. Everything Was Forever, Until It Was No More: The Last Soviet Generation. — Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2006.
Yurchisin J., Johnson K. P. Fashion and the Consumer. — N. Y.: Berg, 2010.
Zakharova L. Dior in Moscow: A Taste for Luxury in Soviet Fashion Under Khrushchev // D. Crowley, S. E. Reid (eds.). Pleasures in Socialism: Leisure and Luxury in the Eastern Bloc. — Evanston, Il: Northwestern University Press, 2010. — P. 95–119. — JSTOR: www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctv43vtgm.7
Aladjalova A. Vintage as a Form of Boundary Defense, Resistance, and Protest // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2024. — Iss. 72. — P. 193–218.
Bartlett D. FashionEast: The Spectre That Haunted Socialism // New Yorker. — 2010. — Oct. 27. — URL: https://www.newyorker.com (access date: 5.09.2025).
Benissan E. Gen Z will drive explosive growth in second hand sales, says Thredup // Vogue Business. — 2023. — Apr. 5. — URL: https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/gen-z-will-drive-explosive-growth-in-secondhand-sales-saysthredup (access date: 5.09.2025).
Benjamin W. Jetztzeit and the Tiger’s Leap // Time in Fashion: Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities / Ed. by C. Evans, A. Vaccari. — London; N. Y.: Bloomsbury, 2020.
Bennett A. Subcultures or neo-tribes? Rethinking the relationship between youth, style and musical taste // Sociology. — 1999. — Vol. 33, no. 3. — P. 599– 617.
Bijan Z., Naseri S., Zare M. Exploration of Relationship between Content of Media, Body image and Choosing Clothes among Male and Female University Students // Research Journal of Recent Sciences. — 2015. — Vol. 4, iss. 10. — P. 58–63.
Bishop S. D. The Motivation of Collecting: What Drives Private Collectors // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2019. — No. 2. — P. 225–232.
Bourdieu P. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. — Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1984.
Braun V., Clarke V. Using thematic analysis in psychology // Qualitative Research in Psychology. — 2006. — Vol. 3, no. 2. — P. 77–101. — DOI: 10.1191/1478088706qp063oa
Braun V., Clarke V. Reflecting on reflexive thematic analysis // Qualitative Research in Sport Exercise and Health. — 2019. — Vol. 11, no. 4. — P. 589–597. — DOI: 10.1080/2159676x.2019.1628806
Braun V., Clarke V. Thematic analysis: A practical guide. — London: SAGE Publications, 2021.
Broun P. Aesthetic Intelligence: How to Develop and Use It in Business and Life. — 3rd ed. — M.: Mann, Ivanov, and Ferber, 2022.
Cassidy T. D., Bennett H. R. The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer // Fashion Practice. — 2012. — Vol. 4, no. 2. — P. 239–261. — DOI: 10.2752/175693812X13403765252424
Cervellon M., Carey L., Harms T. Something old, something used // International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. — 2012. — Vol. 40, no. 12. — P. 956– 974. — DOI: 10.1108/09590551211274946
Cheshmehzangi A. Identity and public realm // Procedia — Social and Behavioral Sciences. — 2012. — Vol. 50. — P. 307–317. — DOI: 10.1016/j.sbspro.2012.08.036
Corbett J., Denegri-Knott J. Rescuing and preserving values in vintage clothing // Journal of Promotional Communications. — 2020. — Vol. 8, no. 1. — P. 28–46.
Crane D. Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. — Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000.
Crane D., Bovone L. Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing // Poetics. — 2006. — Vol. 34, no. 6. — P. 319–333. — DOI: 10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002
DeLong M., Heinemann B., Reiley K. Hooked on Vintage! // Fashion Theory. — 2005. — Vol. 9, no. 1. — P. 23–42. — DOI: 10.2752/136270405778051491
Diddi S., Yan R.-N. Consumer Perceptions Related to Clothing Repair and Community Mending Events: A Circular Economy Perspective // Sustainability. — 2019. — Vol. 11, no. 19. — P. 5306. — DOI: 10.3390/su11195306
Entwistle J. The Fashion Body. — New Literary Review, 2019.
Ferraro C., Sands S., Brace-Govan J. The role of fashionability in second-hand shopping motivations // Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services. — 2016. — Vol. 32. — P. 262–268. — DOI: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2016.07.006
Fletcher K. Durability, fashion, sustainability: the processes and practices of use // Fashion Practice. — 2012. — Vol. 4, no. 2. — P. 221–238.
Forbes. Обувь в России за два года подорожала на 50%, одежда на 40%. — 2023. — URL: https://www.forbes.ru/society/501175-obuv-v-rossii-za-dva-godapodorozhala-na-50-odezda-na-40 (access date: 04.11.2023). (In Russ.)
Gill A., Lopes A. M., Kaye-Smith H. Practicing sustainability: Illuminating “use” in wearing clothes // Cultural Studies Review. — 2016. — Vol. 22, no. 1. — P. 32–58. — DOI: 10.3316/informit.947416186544507
Goff man E. The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. — Edinburgh: University of Edinburgh, 1956.
Gurova O. Fashion and the Consumer Revolution in Contemporary Russia. — London; N. Y.: Routledge, 2015. — DOI: 10.4324/9780203766477
Gurova O. Shopping, Clothing, and Consumer Typology in St. Petersburg // Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology. — 2011. — Vol. 5, no. 14. — P. 129–141. (In Russ.).
Guryanova M. Transgression in Fashion: From Violation to Norm. — M.: New Literary Review, 2023. (In Russ.).
Hopkinson G. C., Pujari D. A Factor analytic study of the sources of meaning in hedonic consumption // European Journal of Marketing. — 1999. — Vol. 33, no. 4. — P. 273–294.
Johns T., Altman J. Compulsive buying in a product specific context: Clothing // Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. — 2009. — Vol. 13, no. 3. — P. 394–405.
Khair N., Malhas S. Fashion-related remedies: Exploring fashion consumption stories during Covid-19. ‘Nostalgia overpowering, Old is the new me’ // Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. — 2022. — Vol. 14, no. 1. — P. 77–92. — DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2022.2085604
Kirgiz A. Hedonism, a consumer disease of the modern age: Gender and hedonistic shopping in Turkey // Global Media Journal: TR Edition. — 2014. — Vol. 4, no. 8. — P. 200–213.
Knežević B., Delić M., Ptić K. Clothing buying motives and store selection criteria — the case of Croatian adolescents // God. XXIX, POSEBNO IZDANJE/2016. — Vol. 29, no. 2. — P. 105–116. — URL: http://hrcak.srce.hr/ojs/index.php/ekonomski-vjesnik/article/view/4707 (access date: 5.09.2025).
Kopytoff I. The cultural biography of things: Commoditization as a process // Appadurai A. (ed.). The social life of things: Commodities in a cultural perspective. — Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986. — P. 64–94.
Laitala K., Klepp I. G. Care and Production of Clothing in Norwegian Homes: Environmental Implications of Mending and Making Practices // Sustainability. — 2018. — Vol. 10, no. 8. — P. 2899. — DOI: 10.3390/su10082899
Langman L. Culture, identity and hegemony: the body in a global age // Current Sociology. — 2003. — Vol. 51, no. 3/4. — P. 223–247.
Machado M. A., Almeida S. O. D., Bollick L. C., Bragagnolo G. Second-hand fashion market: Consumer role in circular economy // Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. — 2019. — Vol. 23. — P. 382–395. — DOI: 10.1108/JFMM-07-2018-0099
McLaren A., McLauchlan S. Crafting sustainable repairs: Practice-based approaches to extending the life of clothes // In Product Lifetimes And The Environment (PLATE): Conference Proceedings, 2015. — P. 221–228.
Niinimäki K. From Disposable to Sustainable. The Complex Interplay between Design and Consumption of Textiles and Clothing: Doctoral dissertation. — Helsinki: Aalto University, 2011.
Niinimäki K. Aesthetical or Rational: Gender and Ethical Fashion Consumption // Journal of Consumer Ethics. — 2017. — Vol. 1, no. 2. — P. 7–18.
Razmakhnina A. The Emotions Vintage Clothing Gives Us // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2023. — Iss. 67. — P. 235–260.
Salomon M. R., Rabolt N. J. Consumer Behavior in Fashion. — Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall, 2004.
Sampson E. Merging and Alienation: Clothing, Its Creator, Consumer, and the “I and Other” Relationship in the Context of Fashion Practices // Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture. — 2018. — Iss. 49. — P. 73–101.
Sepe F., Valerio M., Anna P., Mario T. Fashion and sustainability: Evidence from the consumption of second‐hand clothes // Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 2024. — DOI: 10.1002/csr.2973
Statista. — URL: https://www.statista.com (access date: 15.10.2023).
Thredup. 2019 Resale report. — URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale (access date: 24.03.2020).
Trivedi A. J., Mehta A. Maslow’s hierarchy of needs-theory of human motivation // International Journal of Research in all Subjects in Multi Languages. — 2019. — Vol. 7, no. 6. — P. 38–41.
Vannini P., Franzese A. The Authenticity of Self: Conceptualization, Personal Experience and Practice // Sociology Compass. — 2008. — Vol. 2. — P. 1621– 1637.
Veenstra A., Kuipers G. It is not Old‐Fashioned, it is vintage, vintage fashion and the complexities of 21st century consumption practices // Sociology Compass. — 2013. — Vol. 7, no. 5. — P. 355–365. — DOI: 10.1111/soc4.12033
Woodworth S. Why Women Wear What They Wear. — M.: New Literary Review, 2022.
Yurchak A. Everything Was Forever, Until It Was No More: The Last Soviet Generation. — Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2006.
Yurchisin J., Johnson K. P. Fashion and the Consumer. — N. Y.: Berg, 2010.
Zakharova L. Dior in Moscow: A Taste for Luxury in Soviet Fashion Under Khrushchev // D. Crowley, S. E. Reid (eds.). Pleasures in Socialism: Leisure and Luxury in the Eastern Bloc. — Evanston, Il: Northwestern University Press, 2010. — P. 95–119. — JSTOR: www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctv43vtgm.7
Статья
Поступила: 16.07.2025
Опубликована: 18.09.2025
Форматы цитирования
Другие форматы цитирования:
APA
Лямзина, К. В. (2025). Потребление одежды с вторичного рынка: мотивация и практики российской молодежи. Петербургская социология сегодня, (29), 12-84. https://doi.org/10.25990/socinstras.pss-29.v1fd-zv60
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СОЦИОЛОГИЯ КУЛЬТУРЫ
